Getting started / choosing a kayak

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How to get started

Choosing a kayak

Types of kayaks

Kayak comparison chart

How to get started

So you want to get into kayaking but don't know how to get started. This guide will give some pointers to get you on your way. The most important rules you need learn are:

1- Always wear a life-jacket (PFD= Personal Flotation Device)

2- Never paddle alone

3- Never paddle beyond your ability

The best way to follow these rules when you get started is to begin by taking a tour or lesson with a professional outfitter. The outfitter will provide all the equipment you need along with expert instruction in a safe environment. This is a great way to see if kayaking is really for you. Most classes cost $30-$100. While this is the best way to get started, it can get expensive if you take more than a couple of classes. So you'll want to get your own boat and equipment. Then the best way to stay safe and keep learning is to join up with one of the kayaking clubs in the area. (See Paddling Clubs on our menu for a list of local clubs). This way, you'll never paddle alone and you can learn from more experienced paddlers on the trips you take. The cost of most clubs is about $50-$60 per year, so it really costs about the same as one class.

Choosing a kayak

So you're ready to purchase a boat, but you don't know which one to buy. Let's look at it systematically.

Types of kayaks-

There are 3 basic types of kayaks:

Whitewater kayaks - these are short, with a rounded hull. They are designed to be used in moving water, so they turn very easily. They are difficult to keep straight on flat water, thus they don't make a good choice for all around use.

Recreational kayaks - these are short to medium length, usually 14' and under. The distinguishing feature of these kayaks is that they DO NOT HAVE 2 sealed bulkheads (water-tight compartments in the front and rear of the boat). Click here to read more about Sealed Bulkheads.

A typical recreational boat with no bulkheads.

Sea kayaks - these are longer --usually 14' or more-- and they are narrower so they go faster. They have at least two sealed bulkheads. Usually they are more expensive.

Kayak Comparison Chart

Kayak comparison chart
	Recreational	Sea kayak	White water
Cost	$150-$1400	$800-$3000	$300-$1000
Length	8' to 14'	14' to 20'+	usually less than 10'
Width	24" or wider	20" +up	varies but wider than sea
Initial Stability	Hight to Medium	Medium to low	Medium to low
Secondary Stability	Low	Medium to high	Medium to high
Hull Options	Flat & rounded	All shapes	Rounded
Flat water	Ideal	Good, can be tough to turn in tight spaces	Poor- difficult to keep straight and hard to paddle
White water	O.K. up to class II	Poor- tough to turn in whitewater- only good up to class II	Excellent- any class of rapids
Big water	Moderate- unsafe in rough conditions due to lack of sealed bulkheads.	Excellent- made for big water	Poor- very poor choice for long trips or big water

Materials

Kayaks are manufactured from all kinds of materials; here's a brief explanation of the most popular one.

Plastic - (rotomolded)- This is the least expensive and most common material.

Pros- inexpensive, very durable (impact with rocks,etc.)

Cons - heavy, not as rigid as composite materials

Fiberglass- This has been used for decades to make boats.

Pros- rigid, easy to repair, lasts a long time

Cons- costs more than plastic, fairly heavy, not as durable for impact with rocks, etc.

Kevlar / Carbon Fiber - these are new materials that offer superb rigidity with little weight.

Pros- lightweight, rigid

Cons- expensive, not good with impacts- rocks, etc.

Carbonlight / Aerolight - these are new plastic materials that are not rotomolded, they are layed up in sheets like kevlar. This makes the kayaks thinner and much lighter than rotomolded plastic.

Pros - lightweight, more rigid than rotomolded plastic

Cons- expensive, not as durable

Hull shapes

There are an infinite variety of hull designs. This is just the basics to get you started.

HARD CHINE HULL ROUNDED HULL

Hard Chine- this design uses angles to allow the boat to lean very far to one side (notice the top line is only half way up the boat in this image). This image is over-simplified, most hard chine hulls are multi-chined with steps or multiple angles. The advantage to this design is that you can lean the kayak way over without capsizing. However, this design feels less stable so it is usually better for more advanced paddlers.

Rounded Hull- this design feels more stable (notice the lower line in the picture) but generally does not lean as far before it rolls over. This is usually the design you will find on entry-level kayaks, but it is also used on many advanced kayaks as well.

New vs. used

We get this question all the time: should I buy new or used? If you buy used, you can save a lot of money (sometimes more than 50%), but you have to know what you are looking for. If you buy new you can usually test the kayak first and most outfitters also give a discount on accesesories when you purchase a kayak. Of course, you'll also get expert advice on which model to choose from the outfitter. Whichever way you go, remember there is a strong resale market for used kayaks, so feel free to sell yours and trade up whenever you're ready.

Paddles

A kayak is no good without a paddle. You'll be using it every time you go paddling, so give it some thought.

Types - basically there are two types: high angle and low angle. High angle paddles have shorter, wider blades. They require more muscle to push them through the water, but the reward is increased speed. Low angle paddles have longer, narrower blades and are easier to move through the water but give less propulsion. If you have any shoulder issues you should consider a low angle paddle. Low angle paddles are also nice on long trips because you don't get as tired. Many paddlers have one of each to cover all conditions they may encounter. Our best advice is to try some out and see what works for you.

A typical High-angle paddle. Notice the large blade surface. This one is made from carbon fiber and has a bent shaft to reduce stress on the paddler's wrist.

A low-angle paddle. Notice how the blade is longer and narrower, making it easier to push through the water.

Materials- Paddles come in metal/plastic combinations, fiberglass and carbon-fiber. Carbon fiber is the most expensive but it is also the lightest material. This means less work and less fatique for the paddler. Metal/plastic is the cheapest construction but weighs a lot more than carbon fiber. If you can't afford carbon fiber, consider fiberglass--it is a good middle ground between plastic and carbon. Typical pricing: plastic/metal $20-$150, fiberglass $150-$300, carbon fiber $300-$450.

Pfds & other gear

PFD stands for Personal Flotation Device. A properly fitted PFD can literally mean the difference between life and death-but only if you wear it. So put on the vest and live to paddle another day. The important part of choosing a pfd is to get one that fits well. The only way to be sure is to try it on.